Action of surfactants on the mammal epidermal skin barrier.


Journal

Giornale italiano di dermatologia e venereologia : organo ufficiale, Societa italiana di dermatologia e sifilografia
ISSN: 1827-1820
Titre abrégé: G Ital Dermatol Venereol
Pays: Italy
ID NLM: 8102852

Informations de publication

Date de publication:
Aug 2019
Historique:
pubmed: 27 9 2018
medline: 31 12 2019
entrez: 26 9 2018
Statut: ppublish

Résumé

Daily skin washing routines can promote undesirable effects on skin barrier function. The stratum corneum (SC) lipid matrix is crucial for skin barrier function. Skin cleansing products are mostly composed of surfactants: surface-active molecules that interact with skin lipids in several ways. The main aim of this work was to investigate the effect produced by surfactants on skin barrier permeability. Porcine skin is a well-accepted and readily available model of the human skin barrier. The effect of two cleansing formulations (based on different surfactant mixtures) on the barrier properties of mammalian skin were evaluated. Water sorption/desorption (DVS) experiments were used to measure skin permeability. Attenuated total reflectance-Fourier transform infrared (ATR-FTIR) spectroscopy and confocal Raman were useful to study SC lipid organization. The results showed that while anionic surfactants (SLS) had a negative impact on the skin barrier, with a clear increase of alkyl chain disorder; cosurfactants present in the shampoo formulation diminished the detrimental effect of their primary ionic surfactant, inducing less modification on lipid intramolecular chain disorder. The obtained results confirmed that the mild cleansing formulations studied had gentle interaction with skin. The capacity to discriminate between detergent systems was clearly established with both DVS and spectroscopy techniques.

Sections du résumé

BACKGROUND BACKGROUND
Daily skin washing routines can promote undesirable effects on skin barrier function. The stratum corneum (SC) lipid matrix is crucial for skin barrier function. Skin cleansing products are mostly composed of surfactants: surface-active molecules that interact with skin lipids in several ways. The main aim of this work was to investigate the effect produced by surfactants on skin barrier permeability. Porcine skin is a well-accepted and readily available model of the human skin barrier. The effect of two cleansing formulations (based on different surfactant mixtures) on the barrier properties of mammalian skin were evaluated.
METHODS METHODS
Water sorption/desorption (DVS) experiments were used to measure skin permeability. Attenuated total reflectance-Fourier transform infrared (ATR-FTIR) spectroscopy and confocal Raman were useful to study SC lipid organization.
RESULTS RESULTS
The results showed that while anionic surfactants (SLS) had a negative impact on the skin barrier, with a clear increase of alkyl chain disorder; cosurfactants present in the shampoo formulation diminished the detrimental effect of their primary ionic surfactant, inducing less modification on lipid intramolecular chain disorder.
CONCLUSIONS CONCLUSIONS
The obtained results confirmed that the mild cleansing formulations studied had gentle interaction with skin. The capacity to discriminate between detergent systems was clearly established with both DVS and spectroscopy techniques.

Identifiants

pubmed: 30249078
pii: S0392-0488.18.05874-1
doi: 10.23736/S0392-0488.18.05874-1
doi:

Substances chimiques

Detergents 0
Surface-Active Agents 0

Types de publication

Journal Article

Langues

eng

Sous-ensembles de citation

IM

Pagination

405-412

Auteurs

Clara Barba (C)

IQAC-CSIC, Barcelona, Spain - cbaesl@iqac.csic.es.

Alessandra Semenzato (A)

Department of Pharmaceutical and Pharmacological Sciences, University of Padua, Padua, Italy.

Gianni Baratto (G)

UNIFARCO S.p.A, S. Giustina, Belluno, Italy.

Luisa Coderch (L)

IQAC-CSIC, Barcelona, Spain.

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Classifications MeSH