External lipid function in ethnic hairs.
IR
ethnic hairs
hydrophobic character
mechanical properties
sebaceous lipids
water sorption
Journal
Journal of cosmetic dermatology
ISSN: 1473-2165
Titre abrégé: J Cosmet Dermatol
Pays: England
ID NLM: 101130964
Informations de publication
Date de publication:
Dec 2019
Dec 2019
Historique:
received:
10
07
2018
accepted:
05
02
2019
pubmed:
14
3
2019
medline:
5
6
2020
entrez:
14
3
2019
Statut:
ppublish
Résumé
The main aim of this study is to characterize the external lipids of different ethnic hairs and to study the contribution of the exogenous lipids on their physicochemical properties. On the extraction procedure, sebaceous lipids from the exterior of the fiber are removed. The influence of those free lipids on the hair properties, such as contact angle, mechanical characteristics, and sorption of water, will be evaluated to determine permeation characteristics of the keratin fibers. Relationship with lipid order was also determined by infrared spectroscopy (IR). Lipid extraction indicates the greatest amount of total lipids for African hair. Caucasian lipid extracts present the higher melting point and phase transition temperatures. This could be related to higher hydration and lower diffusion coefficient of the Caucasian fibers. A decrease in moisture was found in the lipid-extracted fibers. This diminution of the maximum water regain in all cases could be due to a higher water desorption. IR results indicate that Caucasian and moreover African native fibers present the most quantity of lipids, and the similar frequency of all fibers indicates a lamellar/orthorhombic order arrangement. The hexane/tert-butanol extraction was demonstrated to modify not only cuticular but also cortex lipids. Exogenous lipid depletion in all fibers indicates a less water content and higher water desorption. However, lipid depleted Caucasian fibers presents an increase in the lipid order which could be related to the different saturation of the lipid extract and its improvement in breaking tenacity.
Substances chimiques
Lipids
0
Types de publication
Comparative Study
Journal Article
Langues
eng
Sous-ensembles de citation
IM
Pagination
1912-1920Subventions
Organisme : Agència de Gestió d'Ajuts Universitaris i de Recerca
ID : 2014 SGR 1325
Organisme : Proyecto Nacional
ID : CTQ2013-44998-P
Informations de copyright
© 2019 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.
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