Ethnic hair: Thermoanalytical and spectroscopic differences.
chemical analysis
hair growth/hair biology
lipid
moisture content
spectroscopy
Journal
Skin research and technology : official journal of International Society for Bioengineering and the Skin (ISBS) [and] International Society for Digital Imaging of Skin (ISDIS) [and] International Society for Skin Imaging (ISSI)
ISSN: 1600-0846
Titre abrégé: Skin Res Technol
Pays: England
ID NLM: 9504453
Informations de publication
Date de publication:
Sep 2020
Sep 2020
Historique:
received:
04
11
2019
accepted:
18
12
2019
pubmed:
13
3
2020
medline:
14
8
2021
entrez:
13
3
2020
Statut:
ppublish
Résumé
The aim of this study is to characterize and detect the possible differences among the hair of three different ethnicities: African, Asiatic and Caucasian. The differences in water adsorption/desorption behaviour of hairs were studied using a thermogravimetric balance and compared with the analysis of the lipid distribution and order using synchrotron-based Fourier transform infrared microspectroscopy. Besides, the thermal thermogravimetry (TG) and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) analyses on human hair were executed. Differences in the diffusion coefficients were evidenced. African hair exhibited increased permeability. Caucasian hair displayed a higher water absorption capability with increasing humidity but with a slow diffusion rate. The Asian fibre appeared to be more resistant to hydration changes. The spectroscopic analysis showed notable differences in the cuticle lipids. The African cuticle exhibited more lipids with a lower order bilayer. The outmost layer of Caucasian fibres contained more ordered lipids, and the Asian fibres show a very low level of lipids on the cuticle region. The DSC results indicate no difference in the thermal stability and TG showed higher water content in the Caucasian fibre and a possible lower cysteine disulphide bond content in the African hair matrix. The triple approach demonstrated the permeability differences among the ethnic fibres and their correlation with the properties of their cuticle lipids. These differences could have particular relevance to the hair care cosmetic market.
Sections du résumé
BACKGROUND
BACKGROUND
The aim of this study is to characterize and detect the possible differences among the hair of three different ethnicities: African, Asiatic and Caucasian.
MATERIALS AND METHODS
METHODS
The differences in water adsorption/desorption behaviour of hairs were studied using a thermogravimetric balance and compared with the analysis of the lipid distribution and order using synchrotron-based Fourier transform infrared microspectroscopy. Besides, the thermal thermogravimetry (TG) and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) analyses on human hair were executed.
RESULTS
RESULTS
Differences in the diffusion coefficients were evidenced. African hair exhibited increased permeability. Caucasian hair displayed a higher water absorption capability with increasing humidity but with a slow diffusion rate. The Asian fibre appeared to be more resistant to hydration changes. The spectroscopic analysis showed notable differences in the cuticle lipids. The African cuticle exhibited more lipids with a lower order bilayer. The outmost layer of Caucasian fibres contained more ordered lipids, and the Asian fibres show a very low level of lipids on the cuticle region. The DSC results indicate no difference in the thermal stability and TG showed higher water content in the Caucasian fibre and a possible lower cysteine disulphide bond content in the African hair matrix.
CONCLUSION
CONCLUSIONS
The triple approach demonstrated the permeability differences among the ethnic fibres and their correlation with the properties of their cuticle lipids. These differences could have particular relevance to the hair care cosmetic market.
Substances chimiques
Lipids
0
Types de publication
Journal Article
Langues
eng
Sous-ensembles de citation
IM
Pagination
617-626Informations de copyright
© 2020 John Wiley & Sons A/S. Published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.
Références
Bernard BA. Hair shape of curly hair. J Am Acad Dematol. 2003;48:120-126.
Araújo R, Fernandes M, Cavaco-Paulo A. Biology of human hair: know your hair to control it. Adv Biochem Eng Biotechnol. 2010;125:121-143.
Coderch L, Mendez S, Barba C, Pons R, Martí M, Parra JL. Lamellar rearrangement of internal lipids from human hair. Chem Phys Lipids. 2008;155:1-6.
Jones LN. Hair structure anatomy and comparative anatomy. Clin Dermatol. 2001;19:95-103.
Marcott C, Lo M, Kjoller K, et al. Localization of human hair structural lipids using nanoscale infrared spectroscopy and imaging. Appl Spectrosc. 2004;68:564-569.
Zhang Y, Senak G, Moore DJ. Measuring changes in chemistry, composition, and molecular structure within hair fibers by infrared and Raman spectroscopic imaging. J Biomed Opt. 2011;6(5):056009.
Kamath YK, Hornoby SB, Weigmann HD. Mechanical and fractographic behavior of negroid hair. J Soc Cosmet Chem. 1984;35:21-43.
Dekio S, Jidoi J. Hair low-sulphur proteína composition does not differ electrophoretically among different races. J Dermatol. 1990;15:393-396.
Dekio S, Jidoi J. Amounts of fibrous and matrix substances in hairs of different races. J Dermatol. 1990;17:62-64.
Zhou Y, Rigoletto R, Koelmel D, et al. The effecte of various cosmetic pretreatments on protecting hair form termal damage by hot flat ironing. J Cosmet Sci. 2011;62:265-682.
Hassel RL, Hesse ND. Characterization of Water Adsorption and Absorption in Pharmaceuticals. New Castle: TA Instruments; 2007: TA338.
Wortmann FJ, Stapels M, Elliot R, Chandra L. The effect of water on the glass transition of human hair. Biopolymers. 2006;81:371-375.
Pierlot AP. Water in wool. Text Res J. 1999;69(2):97-103.
Rosenbaum S. Solution in water in polymers: the keratin-water isotherm. J Polym Sci. 1970;31C:45-55.
Timmermann EO. Multilayer sorption parameters: BET or GAB values? Colloids Surf A Physicochem Eng Asp. 2003;220:235-260.
Coderch L, Oliver MA, Martínez V, Manich AM, Rubio L, Martí M. Exogenous and endogenous lipids of human hair. Skin Res Technol. 2017;23(4):479-485.
Barba C, Martí M, Carilla J, Manich AM, Coderch L. Moisture sorption/desorption of protein fibres. Thermochim Acta. 2013;552:70-76.
Ji JH, Park TS, Lee HJ, et al. The ethnic differences of the damage of hair and integral hair lipid after ultra violet radiation. Ann Dermatol. 2013;25:54-60.
Kreplak L, Briki F, Duvault Y, et al. Profiling lipids across Caucasian and Afro-American hair transverse cuts, using synchrotron infrared microspectrometry. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2001;23:369-374.
Mansour RSH, Sallam AA, Hamdan II, Khalil EA, Yousef I. Elucidation of penetration enhancement mechanism of Emu oil using FTIR microspectroscopy. Spectrochim Acta A Mol Biomol Spectrosc. 2017;185:1-10.
Chan KLA, Kazarian SG, Mavraki A, Williams DR. Fourier transform infrared imaging of human hair with a high spatial resolution without the use of a synchrotron. Appl Spectrosc. 2005;59(2):149-155.
Dumas P, Jamin N, Teillaud JL, Millerd LM, Beccard B. Imaging capabilities of synchrotron infrared microspectroscopy. Faraday Discuss. 2004;126:289.
Dumas P, Millerb L. The use of synchrotron infrared microspectroscopy in biological and biomedical investigations. Vib Spectrosc. 2003;32(1):3-21.
Cao J. Melting study of the α form crystallites in human hair keratin by DSC. Thermochim Acta. 1999;335:5-9.
Gama RM, Balogh TS, França S, et al. Thermal analysis of hair treated with oxidative hair dye under influence of conditioner agents. J Therm Anal Calorim. 2011;106(2):399-405.
Wortmann FJ, Springob C, Sendelbach G. Insvestigations of cosmetically treated human hair by differential scanning calorimetry in water. J Cosmet Sci. 2002;53:219-228.
Lima CRRC, Almeida MM, Velasco MVR, Matos JR. Thermoanalytical characterization study of hair from different ethnicities. J Therm Anal Calorim. 2016;123:2321-2328.
Éhen ZS, Novák CS, Sztatisz J, Bene O. Thermal characterization of hair using TG-MS combined thermoanalytical technique. J Therm Anal Calorim. 2004;78:427-440.
Wendlandt WW. Thermal Analysis, 3rd edn. New York: Wiley; 1986:1.
Popescu C, Gummer C. DSC of human hair: a tool for claim support or incorrect data analysis? Int J Cosm Sci. 2016;38:433-439.
Tonon RV, Baroni AF, Brabet C, Gibert O, Pallet D, Hubinger MD. Effect of stirring on osmotic dehydration of yellow pitahaya (selenicereus megalanthus S.). J Food Eng. 2009;34(7):492-496.
Anderson RB, Hall WK. Modifications of the Brunauer, Emmett and Teller equation II. J Am Chem Soc. 1948;70:1727-1734.
Manich AM, Maldonado F, Carilla J, Catalina M. Istoermas de sorción/desorción de humedad en el colágeno. Arnedo: 59 Congreso de la AQEIC; 2010:125-146.
Vickerstaff T. The Physical Chemistry of Dyeing. London: Oliver and Boyd; 1954.
Yousef L, Ribó A, Crisol I, et al. MIRAS: the infrared synchrotron radiation beamline at ALBA. Synchrotron Radiat News. 2017;30:4.
Martin FL, Kelly JG, Llabjani V, et al. Distinguishing cell types or populations based on the computational analysis of their infrared spectra. Nat Protoc. 2010;5:1748-1760.
Syed A, Kuhajda A, Ayoub H, Ahmad K, Frank EM. African-American hair: its physical properties and differences relative to Caucasian hair. Cosmet Toil. 1995;110:39-48.
Hel Heldman DR, Hall CW, Hedrick I. Vapor equilibrium relationships of dry milk. Dairy Sci. 1965;48:845-852.
Barba C, Martí M, Manich AM, Carilla J, Parra JL, Coderch L. Water absorption/desorption of human hair and nails. Thermochim Acta. 2010;503-504:33-39.
Mendelsohn R, Flach CR, Moore DJ. Determination of molecular conformation and permeation in skin via IR spectroscopy, microscopy, and imaging. Biochim Biophys Acta. 2006;923-933.
Nishimura K, Nishino M, Inaoka Y, Kitada Y, Fukushima M. Interrelationship between the hair lipids and the hair moisture. J Cosmet Sci Soc Jpn. 1989;13:134-139.
Bonnier F, Byrne HJ. Understanding the molecular information contained in principal component analysis of vibrational spectra of biological systems. Analyst. 2012;137:322-332.
Schreiver I, Hesse B, Seim C, et al. Synchrotron-based ν-XRF mapping and μ-FTIR microscopy enable to look into the fate and effects of tattoo pigments in human skin. Sci Rep. 2017;7:11395.
Monteiro VF, Maciel AP, Longo E. Thermal analysis of Caucasian human hair. J Therm Anal Calorim. 2005;79:289-293.
Menkart J, Wolfram LI, Mao I. Caucasian hair, Negro hair and wool: similarities and differences. J Cosmet Chem. 1996;7:769-787.