Efficacy of a Dermocosmetic Serum Combining Bakuchiol and Vanilla Tahitensis Extract to Prevent Skin Photoaging in vitro and to Improve Clinical Outcomes for Naturally Aged Skin.
anti-aging therapy
clinical trial
inflammaging
senescence
skin model
Journal
Clinical, cosmetic and investigational dermatology
ISSN: 1178-7015
Titre abrégé: Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol
Pays: New Zealand
ID NLM: 101543449
Informations de publication
Date de publication:
2020
2020
Historique:
received:
24
10
2019
accepted:
25
04
2020
entrez:
5
6
2020
pubmed:
5
6
2020
medline:
5
6
2020
Statut:
epublish
Résumé
Skin aging is characterized by slacking and loss of density, especially under ultraviolet (UV) radiation exposure. To investigate the beneficial effects of a combination containing bakuchiol (BK) and vanilla tahitensis extract (VTE) to prevent skin photoaging in vitro and to improve clinical outcomes for naturally aged skin. Human dermal fibroblasts were treated with active compounds, exposed to an acute dose of UVA and analyzed by confocal microscopy: actin network for morphology, interleukin-8 (IL-8) for inflammation and p16 for senescence. Human skin was used to evaluate chronic UVA-induced glycosaminoglycan (GAG) loss and to assess the benefit of topical application of a BK+VTE serum (Alcian blue staining). An open-label clinical trial was conducted in women applying the serum twice daily for 56 days (n=43). Skin remodeling was assessed by FaceScan UVA induced a significant increase in IL-8 and p16 expression and marked morphological changes in fibroblasts. Treatment with BK or VTE alone prevented both actin network alteration and IL-8 upregulation. Interestingly, BK+VTE demonstrated synergistic protection against IL-8 and p16 overexpression. Serum application prevented GAG loss at the dermo-epidermal junction and increased dermal GAG in UVA-exposed skin explants. In the clinical trial, face ptosis was reduced by 11% on average for 26 responsive subjects and up to 23%. Depth of skin deformation was also reduced by 24% on average for 30 responsive subjects and up to 30%. This firming effect was confirmed by clinical scoring. Radiance was significantly improved by 29% on average for 33 responsive subjects. The serum demonstrated good tolerance/safety. BK+VTE combination demonstrated anti-aging efficacy and might provide a substantial benefit in the daily care of naturally aged skin in women, through their synergistic effect on inflammaging and senescence.
Sections du résumé
BACKGROUND
BACKGROUND
Skin aging is characterized by slacking and loss of density, especially under ultraviolet (UV) radiation exposure.
OBJECTIVE
OBJECTIVE
To investigate the beneficial effects of a combination containing bakuchiol (BK) and vanilla tahitensis extract (VTE) to prevent skin photoaging in vitro and to improve clinical outcomes for naturally aged skin.
MATERIALS AND METHODS
METHODS
Human dermal fibroblasts were treated with active compounds, exposed to an acute dose of UVA and analyzed by confocal microscopy: actin network for morphology, interleukin-8 (IL-8) for inflammation and p16 for senescence. Human skin was used to evaluate chronic UVA-induced glycosaminoglycan (GAG) loss and to assess the benefit of topical application of a BK+VTE serum (Alcian blue staining). An open-label clinical trial was conducted in women applying the serum twice daily for 56 days (n=43). Skin remodeling was assessed by FaceScan
RESULTS
RESULTS
UVA induced a significant increase in IL-8 and p16 expression and marked morphological changes in fibroblasts. Treatment with BK or VTE alone prevented both actin network alteration and IL-8 upregulation. Interestingly, BK+VTE demonstrated synergistic protection against IL-8 and p16 overexpression. Serum application prevented GAG loss at the dermo-epidermal junction and increased dermal GAG in UVA-exposed skin explants. In the clinical trial, face ptosis was reduced by 11% on average for 26 responsive subjects and up to 23%. Depth of skin deformation was also reduced by 24% on average for 30 responsive subjects and up to 30%. This firming effect was confirmed by clinical scoring. Radiance was significantly improved by 29% on average for 33 responsive subjects. The serum demonstrated good tolerance/safety.
CONCLUSION
CONCLUSIONS
BK+VTE combination demonstrated anti-aging efficacy and might provide a substantial benefit in the daily care of naturally aged skin in women, through their synergistic effect on inflammaging and senescence.
Identifiants
pubmed: 32494181
doi: 10.2147/CCID.S235880
pii: 235880
pmc: PMC7231787
doi:
Types de publication
Journal Article
Langues
eng
Pagination
359-370Informations de copyright
© 2020 Bacqueville et al.
Déclaration de conflit d'intérêts
All authors are employees of Pierre Fabre group, France. The authors report no other conflicts of interest associated with this work.
Références
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2014 Jun;36(3):221-30
pubmed: 24471735
J Photochem Photobiol B. 2015 Oct;151:31-8
pubmed: 26163483
J Invest Dermatol. 2005 Jan;124(1):248-55
pubmed: 15654981
J Cell Commun Signal. 2018 Mar;12(1):35-43
pubmed: 29455303
J Dermatol Sci. 2016 Sep;83(3):174-81
pubmed: 27378089
Skin Res Technol. 2006 Aug;12(3):145-54
pubmed: 16827688
Exp Dermatol. 2011 May;20(5):454-6
pubmed: 21426414
Lancet. 2012 Apr 7;379(9823):1285-7
pubmed: 22489326
EMBO J. 2003 Aug 15;22(16):4212-22
pubmed: 12912919
J Cosmet Dermatol. 2018 Jun;17(3):403-409
pubmed: 28776925
J Invest Dermatol. 1975 Jul;65(1):71-84
pubmed: 1097542
Clin Dermatol. 2011 Jan-Feb;29(1):3-14
pubmed: 21146726
Exp Gerontol. 2012 Sep;47(9):749-53
pubmed: 22790019
Cutan Ocul Toxicol. 2007;26(4):343-57
pubmed: 18058308
Maturitas. 2011 Jul;69(3):249-56
pubmed: 21612880
J Drugs Dermatol. 2008 Feb;7(2 Suppl):s12-6
pubmed: 18404866
Biochem Pharmacol. 2017 Oct 15;142:1-12
pubmed: 28408343
Skin Res Technol. 2017 May;23(2):155-168
pubmed: 27546316
Int J Cosmet Sci. 2008 Apr;30(2):87-95
pubmed: 18377617
Clin Interv Aging. 2006;1(4):327-48
pubmed: 18046911
Arch Dermatol. 2002 Nov;138(11):1462-70
pubmed: 12437452
J Invest Dermatol. 1997 May;108(5):763-8
pubmed: 9129230
Mech Ageing Dev. 2007 Jan;128(1):36-44
pubmed: 17116315
Dermatoendocrinol. 2012 Jul 1;4(3):280-4
pubmed: 23467395
Pharmacol Res. 2019 Mar;141:208-213
pubmed: 30610961
Crit Rev Food Sci Nutr. 2013;53(12):1250-76
pubmed: 24090143
Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2017 Feb 02;10:35-42
pubmed: 28203099
Br J Dermatol. 2015;172(5):1249-61
pubmed: 25363020