Raman mapping coupled to self-modelling MCR-ALS analysis to estimate active cosmetic ingredient penetration profile in skin.

Delipidol confocal Raman mapping human skin multivariate curve resolution alternating least squares penetration profiles

Journal

Journal of biophotonics
ISSN: 1864-0648
Titre abrégé: J Biophotonics
Pays: Germany
ID NLM: 101318567

Informations de publication

Date de publication:
11 2020
Historique:
received: 09 04 2020
revised: 30 06 2020
accepted: 01 07 2020
pubmed: 18 7 2020
medline: 24 6 2021
entrez: 18 7 2020
Statut: ppublish

Résumé

Confocal Raman mapping (CRM) is a powerful, label free, non-destructive tool, enabling molecular characterization of human skin with applications in the dermo-cosmetic field. Coupling CRM to multivariate analysis can be used to monitor the penetration and permeation of active cosmetic ingredients (ACI) after topical application. It is presently illustrated how multivariate curve resolution alternating least squares (MCR-ALS) can be applied to detect and semi-quantitatively describe the diffusion profile of Delipidol, a commercially available slimming ACI, from Raman spectral maps. Although the analysis outcome can be critically dependent on the a priori selection of the number of regression components, it is demonstrated that profiling of the kinetics of diffusion into the skin can be established with or without additionnal spectral equality constraints in the multivariate analysis, with similar results. Ultimately, MCR-ALS, applied without spectral equality contraints, specifically identifies the ACI as one of main spectral components enabling to investigate its distribution and penetration into the stratum corneum and underlying epidermis layers.

Identifiants

pubmed: 32678939
doi: 10.1002/jbio.202000136
doi:

Types de publication

Journal Article Research Support, Non-U.S. Gov't

Langues

eng

Sous-ensembles de citation

IM

Pagination

e202000136

Informations de copyright

© 2020 WILEY-VCH GmbH.

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Auteurs

Aline Stella (A)

UMR U1253, iBrain, Université de Tours, Inserm, Tours, France.

Franck Bonnier (F)

EA6295 Nanomédicament et Nanosondes, Université de Tours, Tours, France.

Ali Tfayli (A)

U-Psud, Univ. Paris-Saclay, Chatenay-Malabry, France.

Florent Yvergnaux (F)

Bioeurope Solabia Group, R&D Cosmetic and nutrition, Anet, France.

Hugh J Byrne (HJ)

FOCAS Research Institute, TU Dublin, Dublin, Ireland.

Igor Chourpa (I)

EA6295 Nanomédicament et Nanosondes, Université de Tours, Tours, France.

Emilie Munnier (E)

EA6295 Nanomédicament et Nanosondes, Université de Tours, Tours, France.

Clovis Tauber (C)

UMR U1253, iBrain, Université de Tours, Inserm, Tours, France.

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