Effects of Different Hangboard Training Intensities on Finger Grip Strength,
climbing
endurance
fatigue
finger strength
force intensity
stamina
training
Journal
Frontiers in sports and active living
ISSN: 2624-9367
Titre abrégé: Front Sports Act Living
Pays: Switzerland
ID NLM: 101765780
Informations de publication
Date de publication:
2022
2022
Historique:
received:
26
01
2022
accepted:
11
03
2022
entrez:
2
5
2022
pubmed:
3
5
2022
medline:
3
5
2022
Statut:
epublish
Résumé
Climbing-specific training programs on hangboards are often based on dead-hang repetitions, but little is known about the real intensity applied during such effort. The aim of this study was to quantify and compare the effects of different training intensities (maximal, high submaximal, and low submaximal intensities) on the fingers' physiological capabilities using a hangboard fitted with force sensors. In total, 54 experienced climbers (13 women and 41 men) were randomly divided into four groups, with each group following different training intensity programs: maximal strength program performed at 100% of the maximal finger strength (MFS; F100), intermittent repetitions at 80% MFS (F80), intermittent repetitions at 60% MFS (F60), and no specific training (control group). Participants trained on a 12 mm-deep hold, twice a week for 4 weeks. The MFS,
Identifiants
pubmed: 35498522
doi: 10.3389/fspor.2022.862782
pmc: PMC9039162
doi:
Types de publication
Journal Article
Langues
eng
Pagination
862782Informations de copyright
Copyright © 2022 Devise, Lechaptois, Berton and Vigouroux.
Déclaration de conflit d'intérêts
LV and CL report their involvement in the development of SmartBoard in “ScienceForClimbing (SFC)” firm, and their current position as scientific advisors. SFC was not involved in any aspect of this research. The remaining authors declare that the research was conducted in the absence of any commercial or financial relationships that could be construed as a potential conflict of interest.
Références
J Exerc Sci Fit. 2019 Jul;17(3):91-100
pubmed: 31193395
Eur J Appl Physiol. 2011 Mar;111(3):557-65
pubmed: 20931218
Ergonomics. 1980 Apr;23(4):351-7
pubmed: 7202390
Eur J Appl Physiol Occup Physiol. 1997;76(2):174-80
pubmed: 9272777
Med Sci Sports Exerc. 1991 Jun;23(6):739-43
pubmed: 1886483
Wilderness Environ Med. 2001 Summer;12(2):100-10
pubmed: 11434485
J Sports Sci. 2019 Apr;37(8):886-894
pubmed: 30326778
Exerc Sport Sci Rev. 2021 Jan;49(1):2-14
pubmed: 33044332
J Strength Cond Res. 2015 Aug;29(8):2286-95
pubmed: 26203738
J Sports Sci. 2012;30(7):669-77
pubmed: 22339482
J Sports Sci. 2006 Feb;24(2):181-6
pubmed: 16368628
Int J Sports Physiol Perform. 2019 May 2;14(7):972-979
pubmed: 30676817
Eur J Appl Physiol. 2016 Aug;116(8):1479-84
pubmed: 27255506
J Hum Kinet. 2021 Jul 28;79:5-13
pubmed: 34400982
Int J Sports Med. 2003 Aug;24(6):424-7
pubmed: 12905090
J Sports Sci. 2007 Oct;25(12):1433-43
pubmed: 17786696
J Appl Physiol (1985). 1988 Nov;65(5):2285-90
pubmed: 3209573
Eur J Appl Physiol. 2021 Mar;121(3):675-685
pubmed: 33355714
J Hum Kinet. 2019 Mar 27;66:183-195
pubmed: 30988852
Sports Med. 2022 Jul;52(7):1533-1554
pubmed: 35025093
J Strength Cond Res. 2013 Feb;27(2):310-4
pubmed: 22505133
J Strength Cond Res. 2019 Sep;33(9):2471-2480
pubmed: 28945641
Int J Sports Med. 2011 Jan;32(1):49-53
pubmed: 21086244
Res Q Exerc Sport. 2018 Jun;89(2):246-254
pubmed: 29578838
Clin Exp Pharmacol Physiol. 1997 Jul;24(7):471-6
pubmed: 9248662
J Sports Med Phys Fitness. 1996 Dec;36(4):255-60
pubmed: 9062048
Sports Med. 2021 Oct;51(10):2051-2066
pubmed: 34101157
Sci Rep. 2021 Jun 29;11(1):13530
pubmed: 34188125
Eur J Appl Physiol. 2007 Oct;101(3):293-300
pubmed: 17602238
J Sports Sci. 1996 Aug;14(4):301-9
pubmed: 8887209