Moisturizing at a molecular level - The basis of Corneocare.
Journal
International journal of cosmetic science
ISSN: 1468-2494
Titre abrégé: Int J Cosmet Sci
Pays: England
ID NLM: 8007161
Informations de publication
Date de publication:
Apr 2023
Apr 2023
Historique:
received:
02
11
2022
accepted:
24
11
2022
medline:
11
4
2023
pubmed:
2
12
2022
entrez:
1
12
2022
Statut:
ppublish
Résumé
This review covers the last 20 years of research we and our collaborators have conducted on ethnic differences in facial skin moisturization placed in historical context with previous research. We have focussed particularly on the biochemical and cellular gradients of the stratum corneum (SC) with the aim of discovering new skin moisturization and SC maturation mechanisms, identifying new technologies and/or providing conceptual innovations for ingredients that will improve our understanding and treatment of dry skin. Specifically, we discuss gradients for corneodesmosomes and proteases, corneocyte phenotype-inducing enzymes, filaggrin and natural moisturizing factor (NMF), and barrier lipids. These gradients are interdependent and influence greatly corneocyte maturation. The interrelationship between corneodesmolysis and the covalent attachment of ω-hydroxy ceramides and ω-hydroxy fatty acids to the corneocyte protein envelope forming the corneocyte lipid envelope is especially relevant in our new understanding of mechanisms leading to dry skin. This process is initiated by a linoleoyl-ω-acyl ceramide transforming enzyme cascade including 12R lipoxygenase (12R-LOX), epidermal lipoxygenase-3 (eLOX3), epoxide hydrolase 3 (EPHX3), short-chain dehydrogenase/reductase family 9C member 7 (SDR9C7), ceramidase and transglutaminase 1. Our research has opened the opportunity of using novel treatment systems for dry skin based on lipids, humectants, niacinamide and inhibitors of the plasminogen system. It is clear that skin moisturization is a more complex mechanism than simple skin hydration. Cette revue couvre 20 années de recherche que nous avons menées avec nos collaborateurs sur les différences ethniques d'hydratation de la peau du visage, en regard du contexte historique de recherches antérieures. Nous avons en particulier focalisé sur les gradients biochimiques et cellulaires du stratum corneum (SC) dans le but de découvrir de nouveaux mécanismes d'hydratation et de maturation du SC, et avons identifié de de nouvelles technologies et/ou apporté des concepts innovants pour le développement d'ingrédients, permettant d'améliorer notre compréhension et le traitement de la peau sèche. Nous discutons spécifiquement les gradients de cornéodesmosomes et de protéases, d'enzymes cornéocytaires inductrices de phénotype, de filaggrine et du facteur naturel d'hydratation (NMF), et des lipides de la barrière. Ces gradients sont inter-dépendants et influencent de façon majeure la maturation des cornéocytes. L'interrelation entre la lyse des cornéodesmosomes et la fixation covalente des céramides ω-hydroxy et des acides gras ω-hydroxy à l'enveloppe protéique des cornéocytes, formant l'enveloppe lipidique, est particulièrement pertinente pour la compréhension des mécanismes menant à une peau sèche. Ce process est initié par une cascade enzymatique de transformation du céramide linoleoyl-ω-acyl incluant la lipoxygénase 12R (12R-LOX), la lipoxygénase-3 épidermique (eLOX3), l'hydrolase d'époxyde 3 (EPHX3), le membre 7 de la famille des déshydrogénase/ réductases à courte chaine 9C (SDR9C7), la céramidase et la transglutaminase 1. Nos recherches ont permis d'utiliser de nouveaux systèmes traitants à destination de la peau sèche à base de lipides, d'humectants, de niacinamide et d'inhibiteurs du système plasminogénique. Il est clair que l'hydratation de la peau est un mécanisme plus complexe qu'une simple teneur en eau.
Autres résumés
Type: Publisher
(fre)
Cette revue couvre 20 années de recherche que nous avons menées avec nos collaborateurs sur les différences ethniques d'hydratation de la peau du visage, en regard du contexte historique de recherches antérieures. Nous avons en particulier focalisé sur les gradients biochimiques et cellulaires du stratum corneum (SC) dans le but de découvrir de nouveaux mécanismes d'hydratation et de maturation du SC, et avons identifié de de nouvelles technologies et/ou apporté des concepts innovants pour le développement d'ingrédients, permettant d'améliorer notre compréhension et le traitement de la peau sèche. Nous discutons spécifiquement les gradients de cornéodesmosomes et de protéases, d'enzymes cornéocytaires inductrices de phénotype, de filaggrine et du facteur naturel d'hydratation (NMF), et des lipides de la barrière. Ces gradients sont inter-dépendants et influencent de façon majeure la maturation des cornéocytes. L'interrelation entre la lyse des cornéodesmosomes et la fixation covalente des céramides ω-hydroxy et des acides gras ω-hydroxy à l'enveloppe protéique des cornéocytes, formant l'enveloppe lipidique, est particulièrement pertinente pour la compréhension des mécanismes menant à une peau sèche. Ce process est initié par une cascade enzymatique de transformation du céramide linoleoyl-ω-acyl incluant la lipoxygénase 12R (12R-LOX), la lipoxygénase-3 épidermique (eLOX3), l'hydrolase d'époxyde 3 (EPHX3), le membre 7 de la famille des déshydrogénase/ réductases à courte chaine 9C (SDR9C7), la céramidase et la transglutaminase 1. Nos recherches ont permis d'utiliser de nouveaux systèmes traitants à destination de la peau sèche à base de lipides, d'humectants, de niacinamide et d'inhibiteurs du système plasminogénique. Il est clair que l'hydratation de la peau est un mécanisme plus complexe qu'une simple teneur en eau.
Substances chimiques
Arachidonate 12-Lipoxygenase
EC 1.13.11.31
Fatty Acids
0
Types de publication
Journal Article
Review
Langues
eng
Sous-ensembles de citation
IM
Pagination
133-154Informations de copyright
© 2022 DSM Nutritional Products AG. International Journal of Cosmetic Science published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd on behalf of Society of Cosmetic Scientists and Societe Francaise de Cosmetologie.
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