Elastogenic potential and antisagging properties of a novel Murraya koenigii extract.
3D models
Murraya koenigii extract
elastic fibers
skin aging
skin sagging
Journal
Journal of cosmetic dermatology
ISSN: 1473-2165
Titre abrégé: J Cosmet Dermatol
Pays: England
ID NLM: 101130964
Informations de publication
Date de publication:
23 Nov 2023
23 Nov 2023
Historique:
revised:
04
10
2023
received:
11
07
2023
accepted:
20
10
2023
medline:
24
11
2023
pubmed:
24
11
2023
entrez:
24
11
2023
Statut:
aheadofprint
Résumé
The process by which functional elastic fibers are produced, namely elastogenesis, is complex and difficult to assess in vitro. Identifying efficient elasticity-boosting ingredients thus represents a challenge. The elasticity-boosting properties of a novel extract of Murraya koenigii leafy stems were assessed in vitro in 3D culture models before being evaluated in human female volunteers. Synthesis of elastic fiber related proteins was evaluated in a skin-equivalent model. Using multiphoton microscopy, the structural organization of elastin deposits was studied within a scaffold-free dermal microtissue. Biomechanical properties of the 3D microtissue were also measured by atomic force microscopy. In vivo, fringe-projection and image analysis were used to evaluate nasogenian fold severity in a panel of Caucasian female volunteers. The impact of gravity on visible signs of facial aging was assessed by clinical scoring carried out alternatively in the supine and sitting positions. We showed the Murraya koenigii extract increased protein expressions of elastin and fibrillin-1 in a 3D skin equivalent model. Using scaffold-free dermal microtissue, we confirmed that Murraya koenigii extract allowed a proper and ordered network of elastin deposits and consequently improved tissue elasticity. Clinical data showed that a twice-daily application for 98 days of the extract formulated at 1% allowed to visibly reduce nasogenian fold severity, jowl severity and to mitigate the impact of gravity on the facial signs of aging. The newly discovered extract of Murraya koenigii leafy stems represents an innovative antiaging ingredient suited for elasticity-boosting and antisagging claims.
Sections du résumé
BACKGROUND
BACKGROUND
The process by which functional elastic fibers are produced, namely elastogenesis, is complex and difficult to assess in vitro. Identifying efficient elasticity-boosting ingredients thus represents a challenge.
AIMS
OBJECTIVE
The elasticity-boosting properties of a novel extract of Murraya koenigii leafy stems were assessed in vitro in 3D culture models before being evaluated in human female volunteers.
METHODS
METHODS
Synthesis of elastic fiber related proteins was evaluated in a skin-equivalent model. Using multiphoton microscopy, the structural organization of elastin deposits was studied within a scaffold-free dermal microtissue. Biomechanical properties of the 3D microtissue were also measured by atomic force microscopy. In vivo, fringe-projection and image analysis were used to evaluate nasogenian fold severity in a panel of Caucasian female volunteers. The impact of gravity on visible signs of facial aging was assessed by clinical scoring carried out alternatively in the supine and sitting positions.
RESULTS
RESULTS
We showed the Murraya koenigii extract increased protein expressions of elastin and fibrillin-1 in a 3D skin equivalent model. Using scaffold-free dermal microtissue, we confirmed that Murraya koenigii extract allowed a proper and ordered network of elastin deposits and consequently improved tissue elasticity. Clinical data showed that a twice-daily application for 98 days of the extract formulated at 1% allowed to visibly reduce nasogenian fold severity, jowl severity and to mitigate the impact of gravity on the facial signs of aging.
CONCLUSION
CONCLUSIONS
The newly discovered extract of Murraya koenigii leafy stems represents an innovative antiaging ingredient suited for elasticity-boosting and antisagging claims.
Types de publication
Journal Article
Langues
eng
Sous-ensembles de citation
IM
Informations de copyright
© 2023 Gattefossé SAS. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology published by Wiley Periodicals LLC.
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