Mitigation of retinol-induced skin irritation by physiologic lipids: Evidence from patch testing.
clinician erythema assessment
human patch test
physiologic lipids
retinol
skin barrier repair
Journal
Journal of cosmetic dermatology
ISSN: 1473-2165
Titre abrégé: J Cosmet Dermatol
Pays: England
ID NLM: 101130964
Informations de publication
Date de publication:
16 Apr 2024
16 Apr 2024
Historique:
revised:
06
03
2024
received:
11
10
2023
accepted:
05
04
2024
medline:
17
4
2024
pubmed:
17
4
2024
entrez:
17
4
2024
Statut:
aheadofprint
Résumé
There is a dearth of effective treatments to counter retinol-induced skin irritation. This study aimed to investigate the efficacy of three potential mitigants: (i) phytosteryl/octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate (PLG), (ii) a physiologic lipid mixture (PLM) comprised of ceramide three and cholesterol, and (iii) niacinamide, in ameliorating irritation instigated by retinol. An occlusive human patch test, spanning 5 days, was undertaken on 18 Chinese participants aged between 23 and 40. It was designed as a randomized, double-blind, and vehicle-controlled study. Clinician erythema assessment (CEA) and instrumental evaluations were employed pre and post-test. Subsequently, a 4-week consumer in-use test, randomized and double-blind in nature, was executed to substantiate the soothing effects of PLG. Data from CEA and bioengineering assessments revealed that, in comparison to the vehicle control, both 2% PLG and 5% PLM notably curbed retinol-induced skin erythema and inflammation. Notably, PLG outperformed PLM. Conversely, 3% niacinamide did not offer relief against retinol-induced discomfort. The subsequent consumer in-use test affirmed that treatments with 2% PLG were better tolerated than those with the vehicle alone. To the best of our knowledge, this study represents the first confirmation that physiologic lipids effectively mitigate retinol-induced irritation. Given their capacity to counter retinol-induced irritation, physiologic lipids, particularly PLG, are recommended for incorporation in retinol regimens. Additionally, the Visia-CR a* value can serve as a robust objective measure for interpreting patch test outcomes.
Sections du résumé
BACKGROUND
BACKGROUND
There is a dearth of effective treatments to counter retinol-induced skin irritation.
OBJECTIVE
OBJECTIVE
This study aimed to investigate the efficacy of three potential mitigants: (i) phytosteryl/octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate (PLG), (ii) a physiologic lipid mixture (PLM) comprised of ceramide three and cholesterol, and (iii) niacinamide, in ameliorating irritation instigated by retinol.
METHODS
METHODS
An occlusive human patch test, spanning 5 days, was undertaken on 18 Chinese participants aged between 23 and 40. It was designed as a randomized, double-blind, and vehicle-controlled study. Clinician erythema assessment (CEA) and instrumental evaluations were employed pre and post-test. Subsequently, a 4-week consumer in-use test, randomized and double-blind in nature, was executed to substantiate the soothing effects of PLG.
RESULTS
RESULTS
Data from CEA and bioengineering assessments revealed that, in comparison to the vehicle control, both 2% PLG and 5% PLM notably curbed retinol-induced skin erythema and inflammation. Notably, PLG outperformed PLM. Conversely, 3% niacinamide did not offer relief against retinol-induced discomfort. The subsequent consumer in-use test affirmed that treatments with 2% PLG were better tolerated than those with the vehicle alone.
CONCLUSION
CONCLUSIONS
To the best of our knowledge, this study represents the first confirmation that physiologic lipids effectively mitigate retinol-induced irritation. Given their capacity to counter retinol-induced irritation, physiologic lipids, particularly PLG, are recommended for incorporation in retinol regimens. Additionally, the Visia-CR a* value can serve as a robust objective measure for interpreting patch test outcomes.
Types de publication
Journal Article
Langues
eng
Sous-ensembles de citation
IM
Subventions
Organisme : Proya Cosmetics Co., Ltd.
Informations de copyright
© 2024 The Authors. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology published by Wiley Periodicals LLC.
Références
Kikuchi K, Suetake T, Kumasaka N, Tagami H. Improvement of photoaged facial skin in middle‐aged Japanese females by topical retinol (vitamin a alcohol): a vehicle‐controlled, double‐blind study. J Dermatolog Treat. 2009;20:276‐281.
Shalita A, Weiss J, Chalker D, et al. A comparison of the efficacy and safety of adapalene gel 0.1% and tretinoin gel 0.025% in the treatment of acne vulgaris: a multicenter trial. J Am Acad Dermatol. 1996;34:482‐485.
Lee E, Kim S, Lee J, Cho SA, Shin K. Ethnic differences in objective and subjective skin irritation response: an international study. Skin Res Technol. 2014;20:265‐269.
Puglia C, Bonina F. In vivo spectrophotometric evaluation of skin barrier recovery after topical application of soybean phytosterols. J Cosmet Sci. 2008;59:217‐224.
Chamlin SL, Kao J, Frieden IJ, et al. Ceramide‐dominant barrier repair lipids alleviate childhood atopic dermatitis: changes in barrier function provide a sensitive indicator of disease activity. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2002;47:198‐208.
Bissett D, Miyamoto K, Sun P, Li J, Berge CA. Topical niacinamide reduces yellowing, wrinkling, red blotchiness, and hyperpigmented spots in aging facial skin 1. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2004;26:231‐238.
Song M, Kim S, Yun HS, Kwon S. Anti‐inflammatory effect of the ceramide mixture extracted from genetically modified Saccharomyces cerevisiae. Biotechnol Bioprocess Eng. 2017;22:653‐658.
Liao PC, Lai MH, Hsu KP, et al. Identification of β‐sitosterol as in vitro anti‐inflammatory constituent in Moringa oleifera. J Agric Food Chem. 2018;66:10748‐10759.
Ye Y, Li Y, Xu C, Wei X. Improvement of mild photoaged facial skin in middle‐aged Chinese females by a supramolecular retinol plus acetyl hexapeptide‐1 containing essence. Skin Health Dis. 2023;3:e239.
Ye Y, Li Y, Bi T, Jiang L. Improvement of urban eye skin in Chinese female by supramolecular retinol plus acmella oleracea extract‐containing product. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2022;21:3416‐3422.
Wang H, Jiang L, Bi Y, et al. Preparation of Supramolecular Formulation of a Retinol and its Derivatives. China, CN112294693 2021.
Wahlberg J, Lindberg M. Patch testing. In: Frosch PJ, Menné T, Lepoittevin JP, eds. Contact Dermatitis. Springer; 2006:365‐390.
Brand B, Gilbert R, Baker MD, et al. Cumulative irritancy comparison of adapalene gel 0.1% versus other retinoid products when applied in combination with topical antimicrobial agents. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2003;49:S227‐S232.
See JA, Goh CL, Hayashi N, Suh DH, Casintahan FA. Optimizing the use of topical retinoids in Asian acne patients. J Dermatol. 2018;45:522‐528.
Elias PM. Physiologic lipids for barrier repair. In: Draelos ZD, ed. Cosmeceuticals. Cannada; 2016:49‐54.
Draelos ZD, Ertel KD, Berge CA. Facilitating facial retinization through barrier improvement. Cutis. 2006;78:275‐281.
Kim BH, Lee YS, Kang KS. The mechanism of retinol‐induced irritation and its application to anti‐irritant development. Toxicol Lett. 2003;146:65‐73.
Hsu HC, Tsai WH, Chen PG, Hsu ML, Ho CK, Wang SY. In vitro effect of granulocyte‐colony stimulating factor and all‐trans retinoic acid on the expression of inflammatory cytokines and adhesion molecules in acute promyelocytic leukemic cells. Eur J Haematol. 1999;63:11‐18.
Ding Y, Nguyen HT, Kim SI, Kim HW, Kim YH. The regulation of inflammatory cytokine secretion in macrophage cell line by the chemical constituents of Rhus sylvestris. Bioorg Med Chem Lett. 2009;19:3607‐3610.
Loizou S, Lekakis I, Chrousos GP, Moutsatsou P. β‐Sitosterol exhibits anti‐inflammatory activity in human aortic endothelial cells. Mol Nutr Food Res. 2010;54:551‐558.
Vejux A, Montange T, Martine L, Zarrouk A, Riedinger JM, Lizard G. Absence of oxysterol‐like side effects in human monocytic cells treated with phytosterols and oxyphytosterols. J Agric Food Chem. 2012;60:4060‐4066.
Chiu PC, Chan CC, Lin HM, Chiu HC. The clinical anti‐aging effects of topical kinetin and niacinamide in Asians: a randomized, double‐blind, placebo‐controlled, split‐face comparative trial. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2007;6:243‐249.
Barel AO, Clarys P, Alewaeters K, Duez C, Hubinon JL, Mommaerts M. The Visi‐Chroma VC‐100®: a new imaging colorimeter for dermatocosmetic research. Skin Res Technol. 2001;7:24‐31.