The importance of stratum corneum ω-linoleoyloxyacylceramides in human skin barrier health: their biochemistry, processing enzymes and metabolites involved in corneocyte lipid envelope maturation.
Journal
International journal of cosmetic science
ISSN: 1468-2494
Titre abrégé: Int J Cosmet Sci
Pays: England
ID NLM: 8007161
Informations de publication
Date de publication:
Aug 2024
Aug 2024
Historique:
received:
24
01
2024
accepted:
04
02
2024
medline:
8
8
2024
pubmed:
8
8
2024
entrez:
8
8
2024
Statut:
ppublish
Résumé
Over the past 50 years there have been great strides made in the discovery of the composition and relevance of the total stratum corneum (SC) ceramide matrix. However, the focus of this review is on the free intercellular class of ω-linoleoyloxyacylceramides, corneocyte-bound ceramides and associated lipids known as the corneocyte lipid envelope (CLE) together with their processing enzymes involved in aiding ceramide attachment the corneocyte protein envelope (CPE). Two structural models and partially shared biosynthetic pathways have been proposed for the attachment of CPE-bound O-ceramides (ω-hydroxyceramides attached to glutamate residues of proteins in the (CPE) using the 12R-lipoxygenase (12R-LOX)/epidermal lipoxygenase-3 (eLOX3)/epoxide hydrolase-3 (EPHX3)/unknown esterase/ transglutaminase-1 (TG1) attachment pathway) and CPE-bound EO-ceramides (epoxy-enone ceramides attached to cysteine residues of proteins in the CPE using the 12R-LOX/eLOX3/short chain dehydrogenase/reductase family 9C member 7 (SDR9C7)/non-enzymatic attachment pathway), i.e. there is a bifurcation step beyond epidermal eLOX3. Their formation and structures will be discussed as well as their relevance in compromised skin barrier conditions together with our own work on SC maturation examined by proteomics, lipidomics, enzyme immunolocalization studies, mechanical fragility assays and Nile red staining of corneocyte envelopes (CE). Reduced levels of 12R-LOX, eLOX3, SDR9C7 and TG1 were observed in photodamaged skin of the cheeks that were associated with reduced SC maturation as evidenced by Nile red staining and increased CE fragility. In the severely photodamaged cheeks of Albino African SC we also observed increased levels of acylceramides. Concomitantly by reducing the activity of 12R-LOX by antibody inhibition and TG1 inhibition with a known chemical inhibitor, we demonstrated in a humidity-based ex vivo SC maturation model that these enzymes contributed to increased CE hydrophobicity and mechanical integrity. We hypothesize that at least the CPE-bound O-ceramide pathway is operational in the SC. Nevertheless, our understanding of the full complexity of ω-linoleoyloxyacylceramides and the composition of the CLE is limited particularly on cosmetically relevant body sites such as the face. Ces 50 dernières années, de grandes avancées ont eu lieu dans la découverte de la composition de la matrice de céramides de toute la couche cornée et de son importance. Cependant, cette revue se concentre sur la classe intercellulaire libre des ω‐linoléoyloxyacylcéramides, les céramides liés aux cornéocytes et les lipides associés appelés « enveloppe lipidique des cornéocytes » (ELC), ainsi que sur leurs enzymes de transformation impliquées dans la fixation des céramides sur l’enveloppe protéique des cornéocytes (EPC). Deux modèles structurels et des voies de biosynthèse partiellement partagées ont été proposés pour la fixation des O‐céramides liés à l’EPC (ω‐hydroxycéramides fixés aux résidus glutamate des protéines dans l’[EPC] en utilisant la 12R‐lipoxygénase [12R‐LOX]/la lipoxygénase épidermique 3 [eLOX3]/l’époxyde hydrolase 3 [EPHX3]/une voie de fixation inconnue de l’estérase/de la transglutaminase 1 [TG1]) et les EO‐céramides liés à l’EPC (céramides époxy‐énone fixés aux résidus de cystéine des protéines de l’EPC utilisant la 12R‐LOX/l’eLOX3/la déshydrogénase à chaîne courte/la réductase membre 7 de la famille 9C [SDR9C7]/une voie de fixation non enzymatique). En d’autres termes, il existe une étape de bifurcation au‐delà de l’eLOX3 épidermique. Leur formation et leur structure, ainsi que leur importance dans des conditions de barrière cutanée compromises, font ici l’objet d’une discussion. Nous abordons également nos propres travaux sur la maturation de la couche cornée selon la protéomique, la lipidomique, les études d’immunolocalisation enzymatique, les tests de fragilité mécanique et la coloration au rouge du Nil des enveloppes cornées (EC). Des taux réduits de 12R‐LOX, d’eLOX3, de SDR9C7 et de TG1, associés à une maturation réduite de la couche cornée, ont été observés sur la peau photo‐lésée des joues, comme en témoigne la coloration au rouge du Nil et la fragilité accrue des EC. Nous avons également observé une augmentation des taux d’acylcéramides sur les joues de personnes africaines atteintes d’albinisme dont la couche cornée a été sévèrement photo‐lésée. En réduisant l’activité de la 12R‐LOX par inhibition des anticorps et du TG1 avec un inhibiteur chimique connu, nous avons pu démontrer, dans un modèle de maturation de la couche cornée ex vivo basé sur l’humidité, que ces enzymes contribuaient à accroître le caractère hydrophobe des EC, ainsi que leur intégrité mécanique. Nous émettons l’hypothèse qu’au moins la voie de l’O‐céramide liée à l’EPC fonctionne dans la couche cornée. Néanmoins, notre compréhension de la complexité complète des ω‐linoléoyloxyacylcéramides et de la composition de l’ELC reste limitée, en particulier à des parties du corps ou l’esthétique est importante, comme le visage.
Autres résumés
Type: Publisher
(fre)
Ces 50 dernières années, de grandes avancées ont eu lieu dans la découverte de la composition de la matrice de céramides de toute la couche cornée et de son importance. Cependant, cette revue se concentre sur la classe intercellulaire libre des ω‐linoléoyloxyacylcéramides, les céramides liés aux cornéocytes et les lipides associés appelés « enveloppe lipidique des cornéocytes » (ELC), ainsi que sur leurs enzymes de transformation impliquées dans la fixation des céramides sur l’enveloppe protéique des cornéocytes (EPC). Deux modèles structurels et des voies de biosynthèse partiellement partagées ont été proposés pour la fixation des O‐céramides liés à l’EPC (ω‐hydroxycéramides fixés aux résidus glutamate des protéines dans l’[EPC] en utilisant la 12R‐lipoxygénase [12R‐LOX]/la lipoxygénase épidermique 3 [eLOX3]/l’époxyde hydrolase 3 [EPHX3]/une voie de fixation inconnue de l’estérase/de la transglutaminase 1 [TG1]) et les EO‐céramides liés à l’EPC (céramides époxy‐énone fixés aux résidus de cystéine des protéines de l’EPC utilisant la 12R‐LOX/l’eLOX3/la déshydrogénase à chaîne courte/la réductase membre 7 de la famille 9C [SDR9C7]/une voie de fixation non enzymatique). En d’autres termes, il existe une étape de bifurcation au‐delà de l’eLOX3 épidermique. Leur formation et leur structure, ainsi que leur importance dans des conditions de barrière cutanée compromises, font ici l’objet d’une discussion. Nous abordons également nos propres travaux sur la maturation de la couche cornée selon la protéomique, la lipidomique, les études d’immunolocalisation enzymatique, les tests de fragilité mécanique et la coloration au rouge du Nil des enveloppes cornées (EC). Des taux réduits de 12R‐LOX, d’eLOX3, de SDR9C7 et de TG1, associés à une maturation réduite de la couche cornée, ont été observés sur la peau photo‐lésée des joues, comme en témoigne la coloration au rouge du Nil et la fragilité accrue des EC. Nous avons également observé une augmentation des taux d’acylcéramides sur les joues de personnes africaines atteintes d’albinisme dont la couche cornée a été sévèrement photo‐lésée. En réduisant l’activité de la 12R‐LOX par inhibition des anticorps et du TG1 avec un inhibiteur chimique connu, nous avons pu démontrer, dans un modèle de maturation de la couche cornée ex vivo basé sur l’humidité, que ces enzymes contribuaient à accroître le caractère hydrophobe des EC, ainsi que leur intégrité mécanique. Nous émettons l’hypothèse qu’au moins la voie de l’O‐céramide liée à l’EPC fonctionne dans la couche cornée. Néanmoins, notre compréhension de la complexité complète des ω‐linoléoyloxyacylcéramides et de la composition de l’ELC reste limitée, en particulier à des parties du corps ou l’esthétique est importante, comme le visage.
Substances chimiques
Ceramides
0
Types de publication
Journal Article
Review
Langues
eng
Sous-ensembles de citation
IM
Pagination
623-642Informations de copyright
© 2024 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and Societe Francaise de Cosmetologie.
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